Melbourne CBD.
DETAILS
Comme Kitchen took over from Mietta’s, one of Melbourne’s most prized restaurants, and its new owners changed the soft-coloured Victorian décor into a stark white, contemporary space. The building started its life as a German Club before becoming the Naval and Military Club; its elegant 19th century frame remains intact with all those high ceilings, the grand staircase leading to the upstairs function rooms and the smell of history lingering in the air. There are two dining areas downstairs; the enclosed space is used only for dinner, and the open area around a rather dramatic marble bar is taken up by casual diners.
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The magnificent marble foyer of this beautifully restored Victorian building sets the scene for a dining experience at Comme.
Upstairs, stunning function rooms featuring Murano glass chandeliers and soft leather ottomans boast an intimate grandeur making them a popular choice for corporate functions and discerning brides. To the right, the equally impressive wine room plays host to casual breakfast and lunch diners as well as being a popular watering hole for local professionals.
Through the bar, the cosy dining room is neatly tucked under the grand staircase. While it also retains a luxurious feel, this space is warm and intimate. With cream walls and buttery yellow leather banquettes, dark stained parquetry floor and low hanging lights, it has the elegant ambience of a chic French bistro. Suave, sophisticated, yet relaxed, the décor is perfectly matched by Daniel Southern’s sharply modern French menu.
Bistro favourites make for superbly comforting fare with a contemporary bent. Seared scallops served with soured apple, kipfler potatoes and herb salad make a fresh and light start to a meal. The classic, crisp Burgundy snails are earthy morsels complemented with a parsley salad and garlic mousseline. Local lamb is teamed with ratatouille and gratin dauphinois, delicately poached Harpuka fillet is served with Savoy cabbage and confit baby onions, and Gippsland rabbit is supported with boudin noir sausage and salad Lyonnaise. While slow-cooked pork belly is a perennial favourite, try the ‘risotto’ made with pearl barley, fresh green spring vegetables and hazelnuts, given a deep, rich pungency with creamy Epoisse cheese.
Desserts such as cannoli filled with strawberry cream, jelly, rhubarb and basil, or a rich Valrhona chocolate torte with salted caramel and passionfruit sorbet make a more than fitting end to a meal. The standard of service is also reliably excellent, which comes in handy when negotiating Comme’s extensive and carefully selected 300 plus wine list, or interpreting the menu’s less familiar French terminology. It’s all you would expect and more from this high-end bistro which offers an exceptional dining experience.
Angela Costanzo
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Comme Kitchen’s menu showcases French fare with contemporary twists. Head chef Daniel Southern dishes out modern bistro dishes, such as cream of parsley soup with crumbed goat's cheese, garlic croutons and crayfish vinaigrette for entrée, crisp skin fillet of salmon with Jerusalem artichokes, confit shallots, spinach and crisp caper berries for main course, and desserts including the soufflé of blood orange with cream cheese sorbet. The wine list is extensive, and the waiters are able to help steer you in the right direction of a promising choice. The bar is particularly buzzy on Friday nights, so don’t come expecting too quiet a pre-dinner drink.
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